More Words of Advice…. By Delux.
” Be kind, because sometimes you cannot rewind”
When saying hi to friends, actually say Hello, then talk your shit. When you talk shit with out saying hello, you tend to get ignored, or positive thoughts get replaced with smart ass comments like this one… ” Thanks for your advice. I will be sure to let it go in one ear and out the other to save room for more stupid shit you gotta say”. … silly lady.
I was out in a far away line up today where a guy was pushing his kid into just about every wave snaking everyone at the peek. I was still catching waves and letting the surfers have a bunch. Fully in control of my board, dropping in on big faced waves yet again. I was told paddle boarding was dangerous by a local friend, who just paddled out after I was there all day yesterday and an hour today already, from another break who snakes everyone ALL THE TIME… and causes what she called “Dangerous”. Not even saying hello, as I am filming her, waving and saying hello to her, she just starts saying I’m dangerous and don’t drop in on her. Who is the dangerous one??? Me because I am on a SUP, or the dad, for pushing his kid into someone’s way when they are already on the wave? Or you for dropping in on me and others, more then a dozen times that I can remember at OUR home break? The only smart one in the bunch was the kid. The 10 year old saw what I was doing when his dad pushed him into the wave, and then he saw me give him the wave and turn my camera back on him to get him in a huge wave for a little guy. The Dad was mad at me for taking my own wave the wave before this one, but then said he was sorry because his kid explained he got pushed into a wave I was already in. Both the kid and the dad were amazing. I saw a beautiful bond between a father and his child and here a lil smiling free spirited 10 year old was getting rides of his life, at the expense of all the other surfers, who could paddle on their own… but with kid paddling and dad right behind him paddling, then pushing the kid past everyone else next to the peek, the kid dominated out there, and it was beautiful to watch. I wasn’t smart because I was too busy coming up with smart ass comments to unleash on her silly comments, and her quickness to past judgement when she has NEVER seen me on my paddle board. I should have just smiled and referred to my own advice at the top of the article, been silent, and smiled.
Part 2: of my advice…
Adults, stop being so f*ing silly around your kids, or other peoples kids. They pick up on your stupidity, meanness, slander, racism, Outlook on life, and depending on how long you have been in their life, their attitude in general to allow willingness to change and grow into their own human being, vs. I wanna be cool like my mom or dad, or their friends. I have a photo of this kid and his dad hugging each other in the lineup. That what surfing is about. The love of getting waves… for EVERYONE.
Body surfers disliked the boogie boarders, because they got in the way with their dangerous plank.
Long boards came and introduced surfing to humanity.
The boards got shorter and so did peoples respect for ALL people who love the water and the waves that line OUR beautiful beaches.
Now, short boarders dislike long boarders because they take more waves easier and deeper, they still dislike boogie boarders all around, and if your caught out in the line up without a board… bodysurfers… you better have a camera, because you will be looked at funny, and ran over several times no doubt with out it. And holy shit, if you have a paddle in your hand and your board is shorter then most long boards, but wider and longer then their short board, and your already standing on your board overseeing what is coming at you, well, cheese and rice, you need to get out of the water!!!! Leave, because I own this beach, is how most surfers react. It is sad, but it may stem from the fact that they can’t do it, they are jealous because they do not understand something, or mad or whatever. It’s our planet, were here to share it. As my homie once said, “it’s play time out here for all of us, stop acting like such a kid”.
Be kind, because sometimes you cannot rewind.